Earl’s Palace, Birsay

 

🏰 Castles of Scotland: The Tyrant’s Tower - Earl’s Palace, Birsay

If you’ve made it to the far northwest corner of the Orkney Mainland, you can't miss the skeletal remains of the Earl’s Palace standing over the village of Birsay. It might be a roofless shell today, but in the late 16th century, this was the headquarters of a family that ruled Orkney with an iron and very greedy fist.

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📍 Location

• Where is it? Located in the village of Birsay, on the northwest tip of the Mainland of Orkney.
• Setting: It sits near the shore, just a short walk from the causeway that leads to the tidal island of the Brough of Birsay.
• Coordinates: 59.131N, 3.320W.  ///bookshelf.risk.clan
• Van Access: There is a decent-sized car park near the palace and the Brough of Birsay. The roads are narrow but manageable. Pro Tip: Time your visit with the low tide so you can see the palace and then walk across the causeway to the lighthouse!

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📜 A Timeline of History and Inhabitants

This palace didn't belong to a legendary clan, but to the "Stewart Earls" royal outsiders who treated Orkney like their own private kingdom.

1. The Builder: Robert Stewart (1569–1593)

• The Man: Robert Stewart was the illegitimate son of King James V and the half-brother of Mary, Queen of Scots.
• The Construction: He began building the palace in 1569. He used forced labor from the local Orcadians to build his "dream home," essentially enslaving the population to haul stone and timber.

2. The Son: Patrick Stewart (1593–1615)

• The Legacy: Robert’s son, Patrick (known as "Black Patie"), was even worse than his father. He finished the palace but preferred his other home in Kirkwall.
• The Fall: His tyranny, debt, and treasonous behavior eventually caught up with him. He was executed in Edinburgh in 1615. Legend says his execution had to be delayed because he didn't know the Lord's Prayer!

3. The Decline

• After the Stewart Earls were removed, the palace was used by the Bishops of Orkney for a short time, but by the 1700s, it was already falling into ruin. Much of the fine stone was taken by locals to build houses in the village.

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👑 Significance in History and Politics

The Earl’s Palace is a physical symbol of the "Scottish takeover" of Orkney.

• Norse vs. Scottish Law: When the Stewart Earls arrived, they systematically dismantled the old Norse "Udal" laws (where farmers owned their own land) and replaced them with the Scottish feudal system. This allowed them to seize land and wealth, fundamentally changing the social structure of Orkney forever.
• Royal Bloodlines: Because Robert Stewart was a Royal Stuart, his palace was a miniature version of the royal courts in Edinburgh and London. It represented the Crown’s reach into the furthest corners of the British Isles.
• A Warning in Stone: Politically, the ruin serves as a reminder of the era of the "Great Cause" and the power struggles between the Scottish monarchy and the northern earldoms. It’s a monument to the end of the semi-independent "Sea Kingdom" of Orkney.

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📸 Johnny’s "Creator" Tip:

The best lighting for photos here is late afternoon. The sun hits the grey stone and makes the whole structure look incredibly haunting. If you have a drone, the "footprint" of the palace from above is a perfect rectangle, showing off the classic 16th-century courtyard design.

Would you have survived under the rule of "Black Patie," or would you have been leading the rebellion? Let us know in the comments below! 🚐💨👇

#CastlesOfScotland #EarlsPalace #Birsay #Orkney #ScottishHistory #StewartEarls #MotorhomeTouringScotland #JohnnyBurr

 

For more of the Castles of Scotland series visit:

https://castlesinscotland.blogspot.com

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earl%27s_Palace,_Birsay

 

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Skaill House

 

🏰 Castles of Scotland: The Laird’s Legacy - Skaill House

If you’ve taken the NorthLink ferry across the Pentland Firth and made your way to the West Mainland of Orkney, you’ll find Skaill House standing guard over the Bay of Skaill. It is one of the most storied manor houses in the islands, acting as a 400-year-old bridge between the Neolithic past and modern Orcadian life.

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📍 Location

• Where is it? Located in Sandwick, on the west coast of the Mainland of Orkney.
• Setting: It sits directly adjacent to Skara Brae, the world-famous Neolithic village.
• Coordinates: 59.049N, 3.336W. ///facing.relies.snuggled
•  
• Van Access: Very straightforward. There is a large, shared car park for Skara Brae and Skaill House. The roads across the Orkney Mainland are generally excellent for motorhomes, though they can be windswept—hold onto your door when you get out!

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📜 A Timeline of History and Inhabitants

Skaill House was built in 1620, but it sits on top of much older Norse ruins.

1. The Bishop’s Foundation (1620)

• The Founder: Built by George Graham, the Bishop of Orkney. He constructed the original simple manor house on the site of an old Norse "Skaill" (meaning a hall).
• The Style: It features classic "crow-stepped" gables, a hallmark of 17th-century Scottish architecture.

2. The Lairds of Skaill (18th - 19th Century)

• The Watt Family: The house has been in the same family (the Watts) for hundreds of years. The 7th Laird, William Watt, is the most famous figure in the house's history.
• The Discovery (1850): After a massive storm stripped away the sand dunes in 1850, William Watt looked out from his home and discovered the remains of Skara Brae. He spent years excavating the site himself, preserving what is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

3. Royal Connections

• The house has played host to various members of the Royal Family, including the Queen Mother, who was a frequent visitor and personal friend of the family.

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👑 Significance in History and Politics

Skaill House represents the shifting power dynamics of the Northern Isles.

• Post-Reformation Politics: The house was built during a time when the power of the "Stewart Earls" (the tyrannical Patrick Stewart) was being dismantled. The rise of the Lairds (landowners) like the Grahams and Watts marked a new era of local Orcadian governance and economic stability.
• Archaeological Diplomacy: Politically, the discovery of Skara Brae by the Laird of Skaill put Orkney on the global map. It shifted the "center" of British history, proving that a sophisticated society existed in the far north thousands of years before the Romans or the English even arrived.
• Maritime Influence: The house was a hub for maritime trade and "wrecking" rights. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the Laird of Skaill held significant legal power over anything that washed up on the bay—which, in the treacherous waters of the Atlantic, was often a source of great wealth.

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🦴 Johnny’s Tip:

When you go inside, look for the Viking skeleton! During renovations, they found a Norse burial under the floorboards of the hall. It’s a stark reminder that this house is built directly on top of the Viking Age. Also, the view from the dining room window toward the bay is one of the best "vlog spots" in Sandwick.

Would you prefer to explore the 5,000-year-old village next door, or does the 400-year-old ghost stories of the manor house grab you more? Drop a comment below! 🚐💨👇

#CastlesOfScotland #SkaillHouse #Orkney #SkaraBrae #ScottishHistory #MotorhomeTouringScotland #JohnnyBurr #ExploreOrkney

 

For more of the Castles of Scotland series visit:

https://castlesinscotland.blogspot.com

 

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skaill_House

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Lews Castle

 

🏰 Castles of Scotland: The Hebridean Palace  Lews Castle

If you’ve taken the ferry from Ullapool across the Minch, the first thing you see as you sail into Stornoway harbour is the grand, sprawling facade of Lews Castle. Rising out of the only significant woodland in the Western Isles, it looks less like a Highland fortress and more like a statement of absolute Victorian power.

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📍 Location

• Where is it? Overlooking the town of Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis.
• Setting: It sits within the Lews Castle Grounds, a rare 600-acre parkland of trees and trails in an otherwise peat-and-rock landscape.
• Coordinates: 58.212N, 6.394W ///overpower.factoring.conductor
• Van Access: Extremely easy. There is a large, dedicated car park for the castle and the museum. It’s the perfect spot to park up and walk the grounds before catching the ferry or exploring the rest of the island.

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📜 A Timeline of History and Inhabitants

Lews Castle didn't grow out of clan warfare; it grew out of the global trade of the British Empire.

1. The Matheson Era (1844–1918)

• The Founder: Built by Sir James Matheson, who bought the entire island of Lewis with his fortune made from the Chinese opium trade (co-founder of Jardine Matheson).
• The Build: He spent over £60,000—a staggering sum at the time—to build the castle and plant the surrounding forests, importing soil and trees to create his own private Eden.

2. The Leverhulme Experiment (1918–1923)

• The Industrialist: The castle was bought by Lord Leverhulme (founder of Unilever). He had a utopian vision to modernize the island through fish canning and industry.
• The Clash: His plans famously clashed with the local crofters, who wanted land reform rather than factory jobs. Frustrated, Leverhulme eventually left the island and gifted the castle and the parish of Stornoway to its people.

3. War and Education (1940–2000s)

• WWII: During the Second World War, the castle served as HMS Cabarfeidh, a naval hospital and base for the flying boats patrolling the Atlantic.
• Modern Use: After the war, it served as a college and even student accommodation before falling into disrepair.

4. The Renaissance (Present Day)

• Following a massive multi-million-pound restoration, it now houses Museum nan Eilean (which holds some of the world-famous Lewis Chessmen) and luxury self-catering apartments.

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👑 Significance in History and Politics

Lews Castle is a physical monument to the tension between "Old Scotland" and "New Money."

• The Fall of the Clans: The construction of the castle marked the final end of the Seaforth Mackenzies' influence on Lewis. It represented a shift where the land was no longer held by traditional clan chiefs, but by wealthy industrial barons from the south.
• Community Ownership: Politically, the castle is a symbol of one of the earliest and most successful examples of community land ownership in Scotland. The Stornoway Trust, which manages the grounds, was born from Lord Leverhulme's gift, predating modern land reform by decades.
• Strategic Atlantic Hub: During the World Wars, its position made it vital for the defense of the UK’s Western Approaches. The politics of the 20th century were literally coordinated from within these walls as ships and planes protected the vital Atlantic convoys.

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♟️ Johnny’s "Hidden Gem" Tip:

When you visit, make sure to head into the museum section to see the Lewis Chessmen. Even if you aren't a history buff, seeing these 12th-century walrus ivory figures in the place they were discovered (well, nearly—they were found at Uig Bay nearby) is a powerful experience.

#CastlesOfScotland #LewsCastle #Stornoway #IsleOfLewis #OuterHebrides #ScottishHistory #MotorhomeTouringScotland #LewisChessmen #JohnnyBurr

 

For more of the Castles of Scotland series visit:

https://castlesinscotland.blogspot.com

 

https://www.lews-castle.co.uk/

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Bucholie Castle

🏰 Castles of Scotland: The Pirate’s Perch — Bucholie Castle

If you’re driving the A99 between Wick and John o' Groats, keep your eyes peeled just south of Freswick. Hidden from the road by the rolling landscape is Bucholie Castle, a fortress that takes "coastal defense" to a terrifying extreme. Perched on a 100-foot-high rock stack, it is connected to the mainland by a narrow, dizzying ledge.

📍 Location

Where is it? On the east coast of Caithness, roughly 5 miles south of Duncansby Head.

Setting: It sits on a narrow sandstone promontory, surrounded by sheer drops into the "geos" (deep sea chasms) below.

Coordinates: 58.595N, 3.048W ///elephant.across.deeds

Van Access: Turn off the A99 toward the coast near the Freswick area. There’s a rough track leading toward the shore, but for larger motorhomes, I recommend parking safely where the road allows and enjoying the walk. The final approach to the castle involves crossing a narrow isthmus that isn't for the faint-hearted!

 

📜 A Timeline of History and Inhabitants

Bucholie’s story begins with Vikings and ends with one of Scotland's most famous clans.

1. The Viking Pirate (c. 1140)

The Founder: The site was originally a Norse stronghold known as Lambaborg, built by the notorious pirate Svein Asleifsson.

The Great Escape (1152): Svein was once besieged here by Earl Rognvald. When his supplies ran out, Svein didn't surrender; he and a companion had themselves lowered down the 100-foot cliffs by rope into the sea and swam to safety under the cover of darkness.

2. The Mowat Dynasty (14th - 17th Century)

The Builders: In the 1300s, King Robert the Bruce granted the lands to the Mowat family (originally de Montealt). They built the stone tower house whose ruins we see today.

The Tragedy at Tain: In 1427, the Mowats of Bucholie were involved in a brutal feud that saw the family burned to death while seeking sanctuary in the chapel of St Duthac in Tain.

3. The Sinclair Era (1661)

The Mowats eventually sold the castle to the Sinclairs, who were the dominant power in Caithness. However, by this time, the castle was already becoming outdated and was soon abandoned to the North Sea winds.

👑 Significance in History and Politics

Bucholie is a physical map of the power shifts in Northern Scotland.

Norse to Scottish Transition: The castle is one of the few sites mentioned in the Orkneyinga Saga, marking the transition from the era of Norse "Sea-Kings" to the feudal Scottish system under the Mowats and Sinclairs.

Maritime Control: Politically, Bucholie was a "customs house" of sorts. Its position allowed the inhabitants to monitor all shipping traffic heading toward the Pentland Firth. In an age where the sea was the main highway, Bucholie was a vital strategic eye for the Scottish Crown.

Defensive Engineering: The site is a "Scheduled Monument" of national importance. Its gatehouse and ditch system (a trench 7 feet wide cut into the rock) represent the peak of medieval coastal fortification—where the landscape itself was the primary weapon.

 Johnny’s "Caution" Tip:

This is one of the most dangerous castle sites in the country. The path across the "neck" to the castle is very narrow with steep drops on both sides. Do not attempt this in high winds or wet weather. The best (and safest) views are actually from the cliffs looking back at the castle, where you can really appreciate its "island" defense.

Would you have the nerve to cross that ledge to reach the gatehouse? Let’s see who the real adventurers are in the comments! 🚐🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👇

#CastlesOfScotland #BucholieCastle #Caithness #NC500 #ScottishHistory #VikingHistory #MotorhomeTouringScotland #JohnnyBurr

 

For more of the Castles of Scotland series visit:

https://castlesinscotland.blogspot.com

 

https://castle-finders.co.uk/Scotland/bucholie%2520castle.html

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