Cobbie Row’s Castle

 

🏰 Castles of Scotland

The Viking Stronghold — Cobbie Row’s Castle

If you’re traveling through the Orkney Islands, you’ll find the ruins of Cobbie Row's Castle on the island of Wyre. While it might look like a modest pile of stone today, in the 12th century, this was the most advanced defensive structure in the entire North. It is widely recognized as the oldest surviving stone castle in Scotland.

📍 Location

• Where is it? On the island of Wyre in the Orkney Islands.

• Setting: It sits on a low rise, perfectly positioned to watch the shipping channels between the islands of Rousay, Egilsay, and Wyre.

• Coordinates: 59.102N, 3.003W
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• Van Access: You’ll need to take the local inter-island ferry from Tingwall (Mainland Orkney) to Wyre. It’s a quiet, peaceful island—perfect for a walking day-trip. Leave the motorhome safely parked at the Tingwall ferry terminal and hop over as a foot passenger!

📜 A Timeline of History and Inhabitants

This castle is the "rock star" of the Orkneyinga Saga.

1. The Norse Builder: Kolbein Hruga (1145)

• The Man: The castle was built by a Norse chieftain named Kolbein Hruga (the name "Cobbie Row" is a corruption of his name). He was a powerful and wealthy man who had served in Norway before settling in Orkney.

• The Construction: Unlike the wooden halls of his peers, Kolbein built a circular stone tower inside a curtain wall. It was a revolutionary defensive design for the time, meant to be virtually impenetrable.

2. The Saga Connection

• The castle features prominently in the Orkneyinga Saga. It was famously besieged in 1231 by the Earl of Caithness. Despite the intense fighting, the castle’s superior stone design held firm, proving Kolbein’s architectural gamble was a massive success.

3. The Chapel of St. Mary

• Just a few yards from the castle ruins sits the 12th-century St. Mary’s Chapel, built at the same time as the castle. It’s one of the best-preserved Romanesque chapels in the North, and it’s likely Kolbein built it as his private place of worship.

👑 Significance in History and Politics

Cobbie Row’s Castle represents the bridge between the Viking Age and the Feudal Age.

• Norse Power in Scotland: This castle is a physical reminder that Orkney was a Norse Earldom, not a Scottish one, for centuries. It shows how the Norse elite adopted European "stone-and-mortar" fortification technology to assert their dominance over the northern sea lanes.

• The Beginning of Castellation: In the broader context of Scottish history, this site marks the very beginning of the "Age of the Castle" in Scotland. It predates many of the mainland strongholds we associate with the Wars of Independence, marking the moment when the North began to shift from open-hall Viking leadership to fortified feudal control.

• A Strategic Chokepoint: Politically, Wyre was a central hub. By controlling the channels between the islands, the occupant of this castle could levy taxes, monitor trade, and dictate the movement of ships across the Pentland Firth.

📸 Johnny’s "Creator" Tip:

Because Wyre is such a small, quiet island, you can get the entire castle to yourself. Use your wide-angle lens here the contrast between the ancient, circular stone wall and the vast, open Orkney sky makes for an incredible, moody shot that really captures that "Viking" atmosphere.

Are you a fan of these 'hidden' archaeological sites, or do you prefer the big, dramatic Baronial mansions? Drop a comment and let me know which direction I should take the next "Castles of Scotland" post! 🚐🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👇

#CastlesOfScotland #CobbieRowsCastle #Wyre #Orkney #VikingHistory #ScottishHistory #MotorhomeTouringScotland #JohnnyBurr #AncientScotland

Since you're exploring the "North Isles" of Orkney, would you like me to pull together a quick guide on how to island-hop with a van, or perhaps a post about the ruins on the nearby island of Rousay?

Balfour Castle

🏰 Castles of Scotland

The Calendar Castle - Balfour Castle

If you take the short ferry ride from Kirkwall across to the island of Shapinsay, the first thing that will catch your eye is the towering silhouette of Balfour Castle. It isn’t a medieval fortress of war, but a 19th-century "Scottish Baronial" masterpiece that was built to impress the world.

 

📍 Location

Where is it? It is situated on the southwest corner of the island of Shapinsay, one of the Orkney Islands.

Setting: It commands the approach to Elwick Bay, with the towers of Kirkwall Cathedral visible across the water on a clear day.

Coordinates: 59.030° N, 2.915° W.

///showdown.drifters.stored

Van Access: To get here, you’ll need to take the Kirkwall to Shapinsay ferry. It’s a short 25-minute crossing. While the island is small, the roads are manageable for motorhomes. There is a car park near the ferry terminal, and the castle is a pleasant walk from there.

📜 A Timeline of History and Inhabitants

Balfour Castle is a story of "New Money" and architectural genius.

 

1. The Original House (Cliffdale)

Before the castle, there was a simpler house on this site called Cliffdale, built in the late 1700s. It was a modest home for the local landowners before the Balfours decided to make a much bigger statement.

2. The Balfour Transformation (1847)

The Architect: The family hired David Bryce, the undisputed king of Scottish Baronial architecture.

The Vision: Colonel David Balfour transformed the old house into the grand castle we see today.

The "Calendar" Design: Local legend says the castle was built as a "Calendar House" - it features 7 turrets (days in a week), 12 external doors (months in a year), 52 rooms (weeks in a year), and originally 365 panes of glass.

3. The Zawadzki Era

In the 1960s, the castle was purchased by Captain Tadeusz Zawadzki, a Polish cavalry officer who had fallen in love with Orkney during the war. He and his family operated it as a world-class hotel for decades, preserving its Victorian character.

 

👑 Significance in History and Politics

Balfour Castle represents the "Golden Age" of the Scottish landed gentry and their influence on British politics.

The "Improvement" Movement: The Balfours were pioneers of the Agricultural Revolution in the north. They introduced new farming techniques and drainage systems that transformed Shapinsay from a barren landscape into one of the most productive islands in Orkney. This "improvement" was a major political theme in the 19th-century UK.

The Power of the Lairds: Politically, the castle was a symbol of the Balfour family's dominance. At one point, they owned nearly the entire island. Their influence extended to the House of Commons, where family members served as MPs, representing the interests of the Northern Isles in London.

Victorian Prestige: The architecture itself is a political statement. By building such a grand, "Old Scottish" style castle in 1847, the Balfours were linking their family to the ancient traditions of the Scottish nobility, cementing their status as the new elite of the Victorian era.

📸 Johnny’s "Pro" Tip:

The best view of the castle is actually from the ferry as you approach the island. Have your camera ready on the top deck! Once you’re on the island, the castle grounds are often open for walks, where you can see the rare trees - some of the few that survive in the windswept Orkney climate.

 

For more of the Castles of Scotland series visit:

https://castlesinscotland.blogspot.com

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balfour_Castle

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