Ardtornish Castle: Highland Chiefs and Clans

Ardtornish Castle

Introduction

Nestled on the rugged coast of the Morvern peninsula, overlooking the Sound of Mull, Ardtornish Castle stands as a silent witness to Scotland’s storied past. Its dramatic ruins evoke tales of clan rivalries, strategic power struggles, and the enduring spirit of those who once called it home. Let’s explore the captivating history of Ardtornish Castle.

 

Origins and Early History

Ardtornish Castle, also known as Dounarwyse Castle, has its roots in the 13th century. It was most likely erected by the Macdonald family, a powerful clan in the region. The castle sits atop a rocky knoll, strategically positioned to control access to the Sound of Mull—a vital waterway for trade and defense1. Excavations have revealed the remains of irregular-shaped residential buildings, hinting at its historical significance.

 

Clan Donald and the Lords of the Isles

During the 14th and 15th centuries, Ardtornish Castle served as one of the principal seats of the high chiefs of Clan Donald. The Lords of the Isles, heirs of the legendary Somerled, held sway over the Western Seaboard from this stronghold. Notably:

 

John of Islay, Lord of the Isles: In the 1380s, John of Islay, the 6th chief of Clan Donald, died at Ardtornish Castle. His funeral procession sailed through the Sound of Mull to the sacred island of Iona, where he was buried alongside other family members.

Donald of Islay, Lord of the Isles: John’s son and successor, Donald of Islay, granted charters dated at Ardtornish. Tradition holds that it was from here that his galley fleet set sail to transport the vassals of the Isles to the west coast of Ross-shire, supporting Donald’s claim to the Earldom of Ross. This led to the indecisive Battle of Harlaw in 1411.

Treaty of Ardtornish-Westminster

In 1461, John of Islay, the fourth and last Lord of the Isles, met with English commissioners at Ardtornish Castle. The resulting Treaty of Ardtornish-Westminster was a remarkable agreement: In return for becoming loyal subjects of the King of England, the Lords of the Isles were promised a third of the kingdom of Scotland. The treaty aimed to divide Scotland among the conspirators, including John’s kinsman Donald Balloch of Dunnyvaig and the Glens, and the forfeited Earl of Douglas.

 

MacLean Ownership and Decline

After the forfeiture of the Lordship of the Isles, Ardtornish Castle passed into the hands of the Clan MacLean. However, by the end of the 17th century, the castle had lost its strategic importance. The Campbell Earls of Argyll captured Ardtornish and other Morvern estates from the MacLeans. The castle was likely abandoned, its once-mighty walls succumbing to time and the elements.

 

Ardtornish Castle, with its rich history and windswept ruins, invites us to imagine the lives of Highland chiefs, the clash of clans, and the echoes of ancient battles. As you stand on the rocky promontory, gazing at the weathered stones, let the legacy of Ardtornish speak to you—a testament to Scotland’s enduring spirit.

 

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